Spiers: Memoranda of an autumn tour in 1836

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CONT. AUG. 17. WED.

consisted of excellent coffee & nice tongue of which we eat heartily at the cost of 5d each. The conversation turned on the subject of Dr Bériot & Malibran's concerts: it appears that he is a Belgian & that they have a large establishment at Brussels where they reside when not otherwise engaged. They give concerts at this place once a year. - Of the horse races we learned that 5 English & 2 native horses had contended in four races, some of which were won by a neck & delighted the 30 to 60 thousand spectators (for I was told of both these numbers) beyond all measure.

The nuts & blackberries we met with in the woods along the hill sides served us almost for a meal. I gathered 53 nuts from one branch. On rejoining the diligence I offered some to the count, who was a pleasant fellow; I was much amused to hear afterwards that they were his own nut trees we had been robbing.

The diligence and its appointments were really vastly superior to French or many others I have seen. 2000 francs (£80) it cost new at Namur - the 2 horses go 30 mile stages, resting 1/2 way for breakfast. One whose colour was completely faded was the source of much amusement to us. - At length we arrived at Ciney & his Grace the Duke seemed highly honored at his house being preferred by us to the larger inn. It was worth visiting for its cleanliness if no other inducement were wanting, but we really wished for a little more of the old fellow's amusing conversation. We were introduced to his wife who was too big by half for him, & to his daughter & on our complimenting him on her jolieness he affirmed it & said she was "bien gentil". His Grace apologised for the humble fare he set before us, but we had the appetite of enjoyment & it satisfied us famously. At first the Duke graciously declined to join us in the "bon biere" of his own brewery but we prevailed on his modesty & after some excellent fun we took a friendly leave of the good old fellow & his family, & he sent a man on with

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