Spiers: Memoranda of an autumn tour in 1836

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CONT. AUG. 18. THUR.

this forest is celebrated, across our path & looked anxiously down some of its dark vistas but in vain. We emerged into the plain in the centre of the wood without meeting with any adventure and descried the tall pinnacles of St Hubert's cathedral in the midst of heathy hills & valleys. We had travelled out of our route to visit this place at the suggestion of our book companion Inglis and the whole of our stay in it which was 3 hours seemed full of romance. In the year 1824 he stayed here 3 months & in the volume from which I have so often quoted will be found much that would induce anyone to do as we have done.

We found our way into the post office street & there bought crosses & beads & amulets of St Hubert. And further on the church came into view, and the square in which it stands with the courthouse town hall & other public offices. And the well or fountain with damsels drawing water and lastly the Hotel du Pays bas tenu par M. Coutelier. Thus far the lapse of 12 years had effected little alteration, but we feared what it might have done for the living actors in his drama, since he the limner himself was gathered to his fathers. On entering the house there sat a tall fine good humoured sensible looking man. "Monsieur Coutelier" said I doffing my cap. "Le même, monsieur," he replied - my doubts were relieved & I felt as happy as if I had called him into an existence. You recollect an Englishman, a M. Inglis, said I who lived here some years since. He replied in the affirmative & thereon ensued a long & interesting converse which showed us less the tenacity of his recollection than the respect he entertained for our friend's memory. Or perhaps the circumstance of an Englishman's visiting the place might still be as rare a curiosity as in Inglis' time. In 12 years that had elapsed he had not heard or seen ought of this guest & the information of his recent decease struck him with surprise & sorrow; pauvre homme, il est mort - he several times repeated

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