Spiers: Memoranda of an autumn tour in 1836

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CONT. AUG. 26. FRI.

less interesting country where having less to engage us our leisure might be more plentiful.

In coming across the ferry from St Goarshausen this evening, two gentlemen accompanied us & mistaking us for Germans, said our English accent was very good & wondered where we could have acquired it. Edwd replied, "during the war while I was detained a prisoner in England". "Indeed, where?" "At Thame" replied Edward. This completed the surprise of the gent who happened to be Captn Ricketts of Dorton Park near Thame. We explained that it was only a joke & a good laugh followed. Our foreign dress and appearance must have led them into the error. -

AUG 27 SAT. The ruins of the fortifications of Rheinfels above St Goar was the object of our march at an early hour. They are the largest & though not the most picturesque yet the most magnificent on the Rhine. They were perfect until 1794 - when the French destroyed them. One round tower of immense size has fallen on its side most romantically. - It occupied us half an hour to go over the whole for they are very extensive; the blackberries too are so large & plentiful that some time was occupied in breakfasting thereon. - We took kind leave of our friend Robertson & passing past the Lurlei, but on the opposite side of the river, viz. on that usually traversed, we raised our voices to serenade the nymph & kindly she responded thereto. The seven cruel-hearted sister countesses whom Lurlei so justly punished we saw still bathing in the cold Rhine,

"Seven rocks are in the tide
Oberwesels walls beside
Baring their cold brows to heaven
They are called the Sisters seven"

These scornful dames though in sight of their paternal castle of Schonberg have not yet

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