Spiers: Memoranda of an autumn tour in 1836

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CONT. AUG. 17. WED.

- though tedious to traverse but at length just at dark we came in sight of the town & right happily did we rejoice. Another mile over a hard rock & thro a long straggling town brought us to an humble auberge which we were told was the best & after our usual fare of much coffee & little bread & butter we were glad to go to bed immediately.

18 miles.

AUG. 18 THURS: Our host a young good looking man accompanied us at 5 o'clock to point out our road. It passed the large old ruined castle and fort of Rochfort. "The town is romantically situated upon a rock as may be gathered from its name, the river Lesse washing its base & * 3 miles stiff walking up a hill and down a valley brought us to the village of Han sur Lesse. At this place is the most remarkable curiosity in this part of the world. I will describe it partly in Inglis' words. I say partly because he is in error in parts. "Now in order that you may comprehend the geography of the river Lesse, and where it enters the

* prettily wooded hills all around".

mountain & where it comes out I must have recourse to my graphic powers. Figure to yourself then a river rapid, somewhat turbulent, stony - the cause indeed of its turbulence, it flows swiftly and angrily forward in the middle of a wide valley right towards a hill which obstructs its progress - a hill that extends quite across the valley, wooded to the top and about 700 ft high. As the stream approaches this barrier, it gets less turbulent as if it became alarmed - and just before reaching it, sinks into perfect placidity - filling its channel from bank to bank, and assuming an air of sullenness at being forced to quit the light of day. The opening is just wide enough for the stream, - and the top of the arch is not three yards above its surface, so that the prospect seems sufficiently gloomy." Arrived here then, & under the conduct of two men a boat & a large bundle of flambeaux of straw, we enter the cavern or trou as it is called, in darkness, our tall guide standing at the head of the boat at his full height: with a

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