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besides a respectable balance for the rent of the church.” He must have been well satisfied with the liberality with which his appeal was followed for some gold & much silver was in the plate.

The place of rendezvous for dinner, coffee & evening amusements is the Kursaal, one of the finest rooms I have ever seen, with pillars of marble all around. A table d’hote dinner is served here every day at one o’clock for 1 florin & on Sundays a second at 4 at 3/-. We bespoke covers, understanding that the Grand duke would dine, but we were disappointed in this. We had much fun though in observing the parties around us. One young fellow of about 2 and 20 was a perfect petit-maitre; his hair & collar a la Byron, his mustaches finely curled, his neckerchief

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